Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
